An air of freedom from Paris to Italy
In a Paris 9th overcrowded with gourmet addresses, the Affranchis are breaking the codes. Between Paris and Italy, from starter to dessert, we lose our bearings. The perfect carbonara-style egg departs from the Roman classic and takes all the approximations of the French version (cream, onions, farmer bacon from Perche), "as long as it's good"! The meal goes on with an astonishing vegan burrata made with almond milk, served with field tomatoes and sumac, a risotto linked with pistachio paste or even a vacherin with aquafaba (the cooking water of chickpeas that acts like egg whites) and seasonal fruits. While this bistronomic table oscillates between classic dressings and modern pairings, the surprise is always in order.
“To cater for vegetarians, we used to improvise some last minute dishes, but it wasn't satisfying. Finally, in 2019 we decided to actually add a proper vegatarian dish to the menu. "
"I like it when you don't know wether is french or italian cuisine, or vice versa, I don't know," laughs Enrico Bertazzo, chef from Padua and owner of Les Affranchis. “I don't censor on myself. I have a basic knowledge of French cuisine, but my palate is still imprinted by Italian tastes. " For this lover of good produce, ecology must above all be at the service of good taste. He wishes, step by step, to move towards an ever more sustainable restaurant. “During the Covid 19 crisis, when restaurants had to shut down, I finally had time to catch my breath and reflect on my approach while thinking of future generations." he says. So he has been proactively looking for ways to recycle the restaurant's bio-waste, looking for new suppliers who are even more committed and has reduced the use of animal produce on his card. “Today I have two or three favorite vegan dishes on the menu and these are some of the best we serve! He prides himself.
- Author: Laurène Petit
- Photos: Lisa Streich
"During the Covid 19 crisis, when restaurants had to shut down, I finally had time to catch my breath and reflect on my approach while thinking of future generations."
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