A natural bistro
Like Proust’s “petite madeleine,” everything about Anicia recalls the Haute-Loire origins of the restaurant’s head chef, François Gagnaire, from the picturesque photographs that hang above the bistro counter to the rustic scent of hay-smoked bread. Even the restaurant’s name pays tribute to the town of Puy-en-Velay, where Gagnaire was born. Known in antiquity as Anicia, the town is perhaps best known for its namesake lentil, the “Puy,” one of the first legumes to be legally protected by its appellation d’origine, or “designation of origin.” After working alongside some of the most distinguished chefs on the local scene, Gagnaire relocated to Paris to open Anicia, a gourmet bistro that he likes to describe as a “colorful postcard” from his childhood home. Gagnaire incorporates regional flavors and seasonal products into creative plates, like a lightly spiced lentil hummus served with a Marennes Oléron oyster tartare, or a lentil-blueberry tart. At Anicia, rustic flavors have a sophisticated flare.
- Author: Clémentine Boulard / Jeanne Bourdier
- Photos: Lisa Streich
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